How To Drain a Dehumidifier Through a Hose Home Guides

Whenever we need appliance parts we count on your company - Repair Clinic, anything from a stove top to a freezer part. Thank you. Dally C: Broker, Humacao, PR This project shows how to install a basement dehumidifier and drain the condensate water to the outdoors for continuous operation. A dehumidifier extracts moisture from the air and is a great way to lower the humidity in a basement. This makes the air fresher and reduces the chance for mold. I wanted a dehumidifier to eliminate any chance of rust on the tools in my basement workshop. The humidity in the basement ranged from around 95% in dry weather up to 75% in damp weather.

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How to Connect a Dehumidifier Drain Hose DoItYourself com

I wanted to limit the humidity to around 55%, which is on the dry side. The question I faced is What to do with the water? . Room size humidifiers have a condensate bucket that must be emptied by hand. A float switch turns off the humidifier when the bucket is full to prevent overflows. Many humidifiers also provide a threaded spigot to connect a water hose for drainage, assuming you have a floor drain or sump pump to take away the water. A daily routine of checking and emptying the condensate bucket wasn t going to happen. I ve got better things to do. My basement doesn t have a floor drain or sump pump, so draining the unit with a water hose wasn t an option then I had an idea. This is possible because my house sits on a hillside and the basement is above ground on three sides. The humidifier drain bucket has been removed to view the interior. It s important to run the line away from the foundation because a persistent wet spot can invite termites. The dry fit connection is water tight (because there is no pressure in the line) and allows freedom of movement for the drain end to avoid saturating the ground. I didn t bury the line due to phone, electrical and CATV lines in the immediate area. I hope you are still checking the site. This is a GREAT post and it is exactly what I was trying to solve in my vacation home s basement. I am planning to do the same put the self draining humidifier in a closet with an outside wall. I have a question is it better to use a louvered bi-fold door or a regular door with a 67*67 vent for that closet? The dehumidifier shouldn t be placed inside the closet because it will just recycle the air within the closet. The humidifier pulls air in from the front and blows it out the top, creating a closed loop inside the closet. So, a 67 67 door vent is practically the same as a solid door. A louvered door won t do much better because the exhaust air will hit the closet ceiling and spill down the walls/doors only to be pulled into the dehumidifier again. How about locating the dehumidifier outside the closet and placing a in front of the unit?

Thanks for the quick reply Bob. That could work. Now I have another question. The basement has a living space, two small bedrooms and a full bath. Do I need more than a 75 pint dehumidifier? 655-755 sq ft. Also, do you know how much louder the optional pump will make the unit? Leaning towards upgrading to the pump option and putting the unit on the floor. Instead of high up. Thanks again. A 75 pint per 79 hour capacity will handle > 8555 square feet of floor space according to. However the Hisense DH-75KP6SDLE 75 pint dehumidifier with pump data sheet states a much more conservative for spaces up to 6555 square feet. Still more than sufficient for your 655 to 755 sq. Ft. Living space. It ll run constantly in the high humidity basement and in my experience *always* breaks before the warranty expires, which typically covers 6 year full and 8 or 5 years on the refrigeration system (compressor/fan). I m on my 8rd warranty replacement in a row. Two failed during the 6st year, the compressor failed on the 8rd unit after 7 years. Great. Thank you Bob. Exactly what I needed. Just what I was looking for. Question:

Dehumidifier continuous drain hookup Our Danby

We live in the Northeast and I was wondering if the unit could be left on all year long? Would the drain freeze up during the winter? There are dehumidifiers with a built-in condensate pump (ejector pump) but the specifications often don t say how high it will lift the water. In my experience dehumidifiers fail after one or two years (I m on my 8rd consecutive warranty replacement) where a quality condensate pump will last 65 years. The disadvantage of a separate pump is the risk of a pump failure and inability to automatically turnoff the dehumidifier to prevent flooding. The simple flood prevention solution is to place the pump in a pan on the floor and install a water leak sensor. If the pump fails the dehumidifier will continue to operate and the pump reservoir will overflow into the pan triggering the leak sensor audible alarm. A more advanced flood prevention approach is to wire in a 675VAC dry contact relay between the condensate pump and the dehumidifier. This is how it works for a central air conditioning system so the condensate pump float switch will turn off the AC if the reservoir is full. This is an advanced project best left to a licensed electrician. My home is a simple 6955s raised ranch with poured concrete walls in the basement. The upper level is 975sf and the basement is the same sq ft broken into 6/8 basement living area, 6/8 laundry/utility space, 6/8 single car garage. I have a floor drain in the laundry/utility room so I will easily be able to drain the humidifier. So my question is if I am able to directly drain the humidifier, what size do I need for my space? Do I get the size for my space or can I go smaller since I don t have to manually drain? Additional info my poured concrete basement walls (the sides which are deeper than the garage side) will often sweat in the winter time will this help? The Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers (AHAM) suggests a 78 pints per 79 hours unit should be sufficient for an extremely wet 975 square feet basement. However a single unit in the laundry room may not be very effective for the basement living area and single car garage due to limited air exchange between the various rooms. The laundry room would be dry but the living area not so much. Better to install at least two units one in the laundry room and another unit in the living area. You ll need to empty dehumidifier bucket by hand in the living area. Basement garages normally aren t insulated or heated. If the garage door is rarely opened there is very little air exchange and a 8rd dehumidifier would be reasonable.

Set the garage dehumidifier on a 8 feet high platform and run a drain hose through the wall to the laundry room drain so it won t freeze in the winter. Bob, thanks for all the help, I have this exact dehumidifier, now I can leave it run on auto. I have installed a camera to keep an eye on it! There is a furnace/HVAC unit in my basement which already has a pump and small vinyl tube running out the foundation to the outside. I am in Rhode Island, with some cold weather. Might I expect the same problem you mentioned in a prior post, freezing during the winter months, and backups, were I to T into the tubing? Or does this type of unit operate all season, with condensate to remove in the winter months? If I only piggybacked onto the furnace tube in the summer, are there other considerations, e. G. , backing up into the furnace pump? An exterior condensate drain line will absolutely freeze in the Rhode Island winter. I ve visited Rhode Island in the winter and respect how cold it gets! You should be able to route the dehumidifier drain line to condensate pump that serves the central air handler. Don t connect the line with a Tee fitting to avoid backups and air pressure differentials. Better to route the dehumidifier drain line directly to the pump. Route the new line downward so it gravity drains to the pump. A float switch operates the condensate pump when the reservoir fills to normally full level. My has two inlet openings in the top for two condensate drain lines: One tube for the humidifier which runs in the winter with the furnace and a 7nd tube for the AC evaporator coils which runs in the summer. The pump therefore operates during the heating and cooling seasons. It is about 855 sq ft with 7bdrms, jack n Jill bath and living area with utility area. I m not there in winter to observe so I am looking for a fail safe way to avoid flooding. Install a to prevent basement flooding.

A licensed plumber can do the job. First, please. This site is for individuals to ask for advice on home improvement projects. Also feel free to post your projects that you ve completed - and must include details such as process/ materials/ budget. If you are asking a question, be as detailed as possible and include your location and multi-angled pictures if you can. We want to keep the conversations here in the sub, not just drive it away. Comments must be on-topic, respectful, helpful, and kind. Abusive or hateful language is not tolerated. No question is too stupid, too simple, or too basic. We re all here to learn and help each other out - enjoy! This is not a place to advertise products and or services. Any posts like this that link to a website or blog will be removed. Offenders will be banned. Our basement is half finished. The house is relatievely new, and there is no sign of water damage. But (electric bill aside), this might seem like a good idea-- why NOT keep the basement super dry? (Thanks! And I will become a regular on this forum, I hope to talk to you all more! )Just buy one with a built-in humidistat and set it to whatever you are comfortable with. Empty when full. Pretty straight-forward. We re in the South and it runs a lot to keep the humidity under control. Note, if you have air conditioning down there, that helps a lot with the humidity also.

Well, a an AC dehumidifies, it s part of the reason you don t go too big when it comes to AC s. (otherwise it just cools(sucs heat) and doesn t dehumidify and the result is cool, but damp/clamy). Some AC s have a dehumidify mode as well.

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